From JzxWiki

General Maintenance

Spark Plugs

1JZ GTE VVT-i maintenance sticker

NGK BKR6EK

The 1JZ-GTE VVT-i engine uses a wasted spark ignition system which requires the use of a dual (or more) electrode spark plug (see, 1JZ GTE VVT-i maintenance sticker above). While normal plugs may still work, their operating life will be greatly reducedas as a result of the way the wasted spark ignition system operates.

As such, the following NGK plugs are recommended as replacements on a stock (unmodified) engine:

- NGK BKR6EK (twin electrode copper plug ~$8.00ea)

- NGK BKR6EKPB-11 (twin electrode 'Premium Platinum, Special Design' spark plug ~$20.00ea)

A good place to buy these plugs is at http://www.hardparts.com.au If you spend over $100 you get free shipping...

Other brands of spark plug, such as Bosch, Denso, Champion etc. should have similar types of plugs to the NGKs mentioned above. So, if you are more comfortable using another spark plug manufacturer then please do so by all means, just keep in mind the two electrode requirement.

Additionally, spark plugs for a modified engine with increased output are beyond the scope of this Wiki page, in which case you should consult your mechanic or tuner for their preference or recommendations.

NOTE: Since not a lot of places stock the above mentioned plugs, in a pinch, you can quite comfortably get away with running 'normal' spark plugs such as the NGK BKR6E, BKR6E-11, BKR7E, BKR7E-11 etc. varieties and still get around 5,000kms usage out of them

Wasted Spark Ignition System

Distributor-less Ignition Systems are available in two types - Individual Coil Systems (also known as "coil-on-plug") and Wasted Spark Ignition.

Wasted Spark Ignition systems use one coil for every two cylinders (i.e. 1JZ GTE). The coil provides the spark for one of the paired cylinders on the compression stroke and to the other on the exhaust stroke. Because the coil fires the spark plug on the exhaust stroke as well, it is appropriately named 'wasted spark ignition'. In effect, the spark plugs fire simultaneously and twice as often.

One of the two paired spark plugs is always negative polarity while the other spark plug is always positive polarity. Negative polarity means the spark plug's center electrode is negatively charged and its ground electrode is positively charged. Positive polarity is the opposite. Each time the plug fires, a rapid exchange of the protons and electrons occurs, called ionization.

The negatively charged electrons will be attracted to whichever side of the spark plug that is positively charged. The positively charged protons have much more mass than electrons, and thus cause more wear on the electrode they collide with. Hence, one plug will exhibit more wear on its ground electrode, while the other plug will experience more wear on its center electrode. If a spark plug with a precious metal on only the center electrode were to be used with this type of ignition system, there would be uneven wear on half the plugs. Although single precious metal or standard nickel plugs will still allow the engine to run, plug life will be greatly reduced.

Therefore, if a vehicle was originally equipped with dual precious metal spark plugs, replacement with a single precious metal or standard nickel plug may reduce plug life and engine performance.

Spark Plug Gapping

When it comes to spark plug gaps, the general rule of thumb seems to be, 'run the largest gap you can get away with!' Just because you end up with a small spark plug gap does not immediately mean that that is the correct or best setting for your application. The larger the spark plug gap, the more energy it can release and the better burn the air fuel mixture experience.

The stock spark plug gap for the 1JZ GTE VVT-i motor is recommended to be 1.1mm. Once you start modifying various aspects of your engine to improve it's performance you generally start to move away from the ideal conditions the original manufacturer indented the engine to be operating at. Thus, you may begin to experience issues with spark delivery. If this is the case, simply modifying the spark plug gap may cure your problems. If not, you may need to experiment with different spark plug heat ranges and gaps as well.

Essentially, if you follow the rule of thumb noted above, you'd start off with the factory 1.1mm gap and work downwards until you reach a plug gap that eliminates or at the very least minimizes the issues associated with your 'boosted' engine.

If you continue to experience spark related problems, you may need to change the heat range of your plug and start the gapping process again from the 1.1mm factory spec.

Once you've started on the modification roundabout, there is no sure fire way of determining exactly which plug (heat range, etc.) or gap will work in your particular application. It's simply a matter of testing different combinations until you find the best compromise.

Spark Plug Heat Range

The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.

The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.

Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburation or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage

Light Bulb Sizes

Chaser JZX100

Tourer V cars - hid d2r for high and low

Tourer V cars after compliance - it should be h4 for high and low (however dont quote me on that)

Series 1 fogs - h3c

Series 2 fogs - hb4

Non Tourer V cars series 1 ie gx100/105, lx100 etc - hb4 low and fog, hb3 high

Non Tourer V cars series 2 same

Mark II and Cresta JZX100

Tourer V cars - hid d2r low, hb3 hi, h3c fog

Tourer V cars - dont know here, only low beam will change

Mark II series 1 fogs - h3c

Mark II series 2 fogs - same

Non Tourer V cars series 1 ie gx100/105, lx100 etc - h4 hi and low, hb4 fog

Non Tourer V cars series 1 - same

Roulant G and Exceed cars - hid d2r low, hb3 hi, h3c fog

Super Lucent and non Roulant G cars - h4 hi and low, hb4 fog

Roulant series 1 fog - h3c

Roulant series 2 fog - hb4

Chaser JZX90

Should be h4 high and low, h3c for fogs

JZX90 Mark II

same for hi and low, with 9006 for fogs

JZX100 interior and other lights

T10 for indicators

G14 is the room light

T20 for rear tail lights

T10 are dash lights

should be same for JZX90 cars though unconfirmed

- General Maintenance Items & Part Numbers

- General Maintenance Items

Spark Plugs (stock): NGK BKR6E or BKR6E11 or BKR6EKPB-11 (preferred)

Spark Plugs (BPU): NGK BKR7E or BKR7E11

Windscreen Washer tank: Capacity: 3.5L

Power steering fluid Capacity: 0.8L - TOYOTA genuine power steering fluid recommended

Clutch fluid: TOYOTA genuine brake fluid 2500H recommended

Brake fluid: TOYOTA genuine brake fluid 2500H

Fuel tank: 70L - Unleaded Premium gasoline

Coolant - Capacity (AT): 8.4L - TOYOTA genuine long life coolant recommended, Dilution 30%...-12°C, 50%...-35°C

Coolant - Capacity (MT): 7.7L - TOYOTA genuine long life coolant recommended, Dilution 30%...-12°C, 50%...-35°C

Automatic transmission fluid: 7.65L - TOYOTA genuine auto fluid type T - III recommended

Manual transmission oil: 3.0L - TOYOTA genuine MG gear oil special II (API GL-4 OR GL-5 SAE 75W-90) recommended

Differential Oil (With Torsem LSD & without LSD): 1.3L - TOYOTA genuine hypoid gear oil SX (API.GL-5,SAE85W-90) recommended

Engine oil: 5.1L (oil change only), 5.4L (oil & filter) - TOYOTA genuine clean SH (API SH/ILSAC, GF-1.SAE.10W-30), TOYOTA genuine neo gear SH (API SH/ILSAC, GF-1.SAE5W-30), TOYOTA genuine clean SG (API SG.SAE10W-30) *Only use 5W-30 for cold climate areas

Oil Filter: Ryco - Part# Z418

Fuel Filter: Ryco - Part# Z373

Standard tyres: front: 205/55R16 (2.3bar), rear: 225/50R16 (2.4bar)

Windscreen(s): Instant Windscreens @ Prospect in Adelaide actually know what a Chaser/MkII is and are very helpful! Ask for Daryl or Greg, expect around $700 fitted and supplied for each and 2-3 days shipping. These guys cater for JZX90/100 Chaser and MkII models. Only place in Australia I could find under $1000! 132 444 ask to be put through to Daryl or Greg @ prospect in Adelaide.

- Toyota Part Numbers for JZX100 1JZ-GTE Chaser Tourer V (Auto)

Engine gasket overhaul kit: Part# 04111-46111

Note: If the above overhaul kit is anything like the Supra gasket overhaul kit (aprox +-$380AUD) it should include a new head gasket as well as most of the following:

Valve Cover Gasket, Intake Side
Valve Cover Gasket, Exhaust Side
Valve Cover Washers / Grommets
Washer to Front Bearing Caps
Head Gasket
Oil Drain Plug Gasket
Cam Seals
Rear Main Seal
Front Crank Seal
Timing Cover Gasket
O-Ring for Oil Pump #1
O-Ring for Oil Pump #2
Oil Stainer Gasket
Washer for Oil Filter Bracket Bolt
O-Ring for Back of Water Pump
O-Ring for Short Water By-Pass Pipe
Water Outlet Housing Gasket
Water Inlet Housing Gasket
Thermostat Gasket
Exhaust Gasket #1
Exhaust Gasket #2
Intake Manifold Gasket
Surge Tank Gasket
Turbo Oil Outlet Gasket
Turbo Oil Pipe Union Bolt Gasket
Valve Stem Seals, Intake
Valve Stem Seals, Exhaust
O-Ring for Dipstick Tube
Fuel Damper Gasket Pipe Side
Fuel Damper Gasket Damper Side
Injector Vibration Insulator
Injector O-Ring #1
Injector O-Ring #2

Timing Belt (OEM): 13568-49065

Oil Pump Assembly: 15100-46030

Crank Position Sensor: 90919-05023

Water Pump Assembly (inc. O-ring): 16100-49855

Air Box Assembly: 17700-46290

Air Box - Cold Air Assembly/scoop: 17751-46080 + 17751-46081

Ignition Coil Assembly: 90919-02216

Alternator Assembly: 27060-46160 + 27060-46301

Starter Motor (0.8kw): 28100-46130

Starter Motor (1.4kw): 28100-46140 (hmmm, interesting! Same part number as a 2JZ-GTE Supra)

Fuel Filter (OEM): 23300-46050

JZX100 Rear brake pads: 04466-22150

Gasket Turbine Outlet: 17279-88410 (gasket that goes between dump and back out the turbo)

Serpentine belt for 1jzgte vvti: 6PK1940

Air filter (OEM): 17801-46060

Air filer (K&N OEM replacement): 33-2054

O2 sensor: 89465-80015

Brake booster: 44610-2A140

Radiator inlet hose: 16571-46180

Radiator outlet hose: 16572-46200

Radiator, Assy: 16400-46490

Accessory Drive Tensioner: 16620-0W016

Radiator Overflow Tank, Assy: 16470-46150

Alernator Assy: 27060-46160

Aircon compressor Assy: 88320-2A050

Aircon Clutch Assy: 88410-2A080

- 100k Service Parts

Engine oil 10w-30sj vvti: 08880-81704

Diff oil 85w-90: 08885-80924

Brakefluid: 08823-80080

Oil filter: 90915-YZZD2

V-belt: 90916-A2007

Spark Plugs (OEM): PK20TR11

Transmission fluid: 08886-81120

Idler sub assembly: 13505-46070

Tensioner: 13540-46030

Water pump: 16100-49855

Coolant: 08889-80086

Seal - Type T oil: 90311-38056

Oil Seal: 90311-40020

Oil Seal: 90311-46001

- Manual Transmission Reference Pics

Drain plug location

MT drain plug location

Filler plug

MT filler location

- Toyota Error codes

- Reading the Error Codes (diagnostic codes)

Reading the diagnostic trouble codes is very easy. You will need a paper clip to short the check connectors of the diagnostic connector. The diagnostic connector comes in two types. The early system is located on the inner-left fender well and is a round, green connector, usually located near the air cleaner. Simply jump the two terminals in this connector with the ignition switch in the "ON" position and the engine off. Later models, '87 and newer use a multiple terminal "DIAGNOSTIC" connector which is a small, rectangular-shaped grey "box", usually located near the right fender in the enigne compartment. To get codes out of this type of connector, jump the "TE1" and "E1" teminals. Finding these terminals is easy as the inside cover of the diagnostic connector contains a schematic of the connector pinouts. If the underhood emission decal (VECI) is still intact on your vehicle, the proper pins for this are outlined there as well.

The trouble codes will appear as flashes of the check engine lamp. Be sure the ignition key is on, the engine off, and your foot off of the accelerator when reading the codes. Two different codes may appear: One-digit and two digit. One digit codes have an approximate 4.5 second delay between flashes with the check engine light illuminating for about a half of a second. Mulitiple codes have a 2.5 second delay between them. For example a code two flashes the check engine lamp two times in a little over one second: I I. If two codes are stored, such as a code two and a code four, the lamp may flash as such: ....I I....I I I I. Crude examples but you get the idea. Two digit codes are similar but will flash the lamp with the first number first and the second number last. An example of a code twleve is I ....II and a code twenty four is I I..IIII.

{{#evp:youtube|O_EDiu23AMs|How to check Error Codes on a JZX100|left}}

- Error Codes

1 or NONE

SYSTEM NORMAL

11

LOSS OF POWER SUPPLY TO ECU
IGNITION SWITCH/CIRCUIT
MAIN RELAY/CIRCUIT
ECU

6 or 12

RPM SIGNAL-NO SIGNAL TO ECU FROM DISTRIBUTOR ("Ne" OR "G") AFTER ENGINE HAS BEEN CRANKED
DISTRIBUTOR/CIRCUIT
STARTERSIGNAL CIRCUIT
IGNITER/IGNITER CIRCUIT
ECU

13

SAME AS ABOVE BUT AFTER ENGINE HAS RUN AT 1,000-1,500 RPM
DISTRIBUTOR/DISTRIBUTOR CIRCUIT
ECU

3 or 14

IGNITION SIGNAL
NO "IGF" SIGNAL TO ECU
IGNITER/IGNITER CIRCUIT
IGNITER AND IGNITION COIL/CIRCUIT
ECU

5 or 21

OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL/OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER SIGNAL
OPEN OR SHORT IN OXYGEN SENSOR OR OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL

4 or 22

WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
OPEN OR SHORT IN WATER TEMP. SENSOR SIGNAL
WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR CIRCUIT
WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR
ECU

8 or 24

INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL
OPEN OR SHORT IN INTAKE AIR TEMP. SIGNAL
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE CIRCUIT
INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
ECU

25

AIR/FUEL RATIO LEAN INDICATOR
LEAN SIGNAL SENT TO ECU FROM O2 SENSOR
INJECTOR FAULT(S)
FUEL PRESSURE
OXYGEN SENSOR
AIRFLOW METER OR MAP SENSOR
IGNITION
ECU

26

AIR/FUEL RATIO RICH INDICATOR
SAME AS ABOVE
COLD START INJECTOR

27

SUB-OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT OR SUB-OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER CIRCUIT
SUB OXYGEN SENSOR/HEATER/CIRCUIT
ECU

28

No.2 OXYGEN SENSOR/OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER
SAME AS CODE 21

2 or 31

MANIFOLD AND/OR AIRFLOW METER SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT
AIRFLOW METER/CIRCUIT
MANIFOLD PRESSURE SENSOR/CIRCUIT
ECU

32

AIRFLOW METER SIGNAL (VANE-TYPE)
AIRFLOW METER./CIRCUIT
ECU

14 or 34

TURBOCHARGER PRESSURE
ABNORMAL TURBOCHARGER PRESSURE
TURBO CHARGER
AIRFLOW METER/MANIFOLD/TURBOCHARGER PRESSURE SENSOR
INTERCOOLER SYSTEM
ECU

35

TURBOCHARGER PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL
TURBOCHARGER PRESSURE SENSOR
ECU

7 or 41

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL
OPEN OR SHORT IN TPS SIGNAL
TPS SENSOR
TPS SIGNAL/CIRCUIT
ECU

9 or 42

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT
NO SPD. SIGNAL FOR SEVERLA SECONDS
WHILE VEHICLE IS OPERATED UNDER HEAVY LOAD (TPS/MAP/AIR FLOW INPUTS)
SPEED SENSOR/CIRCUIT
ECU

10 or 43

STARTER SIGNAL
NO "STA" SIGNAL TO ECU UNTIL ENGINE SPEED EXCEEDS 800RPM
IGNITION SWITCH/CIRCUIT
ECU

11 or 51

SWITCH SIGNALS
IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU
WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED
A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT
A/C AMPLIFIER
TPS/CIRCUIT
NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT
ECU

12 or 52

KNOCK SENSOR SIGNAL--OPEN OR SHORT IN KNOCK SENSOR SIGNAL
KNOCK SENSOR/CIRCUIT
ECU

13 or 53

KNOCK CONTROL SIGNAL IN ECU
ECU

71

EGR VALVE MALFUNCTION--EXHAUST GAS TEMPEATURE BELOW SPEC. FOR EGR CONTROL
EGR SYSTEM
EGR GAS TEMPERATURE SENSOR/CIRCUIT

72

AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR RELAY/RELAY SIGNAL
A/C COMPRESSOR RELAY/CIRCUIT
ECU

- Cleaning/Restoring Headlights

There's a couple different ways to clean and restore the headlights, including simply using a metal polish. However, we'll be concentrating on using one of the many available headlight cleaning/restoration kits. The major reason for this is that most, if not all, of these kits contain some kind of headlight sealer as part of the package. Without the sealer, your headlights won't stay fresh and shiny for quite as long.

For this example, I'll be using the "Headlight Restoraion Kit" made by Invision which I purchased from my local AutoBarn for the princely sum of ~$30

This particular kit uses a simple 6 step process.

Step 1: Preparation - tape off the paintwork around each headlight, or simply remove the headlight completely as I did (2 minute job on a JZX)
Step 2: Remove Corrosion - This is accomplished by applying the Yellow X spray as supplied with this kit. I'm not sure what this liquid consists of but it certainly seems to have an effect on the lens plastic when applied.
Step 3: Sanding - This is where the majority of work takes place and also where the final result is ultimately determined, so take you time sanding! Remember to use plenty of water and keep checking your progress.
Step 4: Polishing - Up until now, your headlight will still look quite murky from all the sanding, but they should now be baby butt smooth. Once you apply the polish you'll soon realize what all that elbow grease with the sand paper was in aid of.
Step 5: Clean - Final clean and prep before the sealant is applied. Make sure to remove any access polish before continuing to the next step.
Step 6: Apply Lens Clear - The finishing touch and pretty much the only reason I bought this particular kit. So, apply the sealer, which should help protect the lenses from UV etc. and help to keep the clear for longer.

My headlights were in pretty bad shape, particularly because the compliance 'people' butchered them when removing the factory HID components and so even the inside of the lenses is a bit dodgy. Nevertheless, just cleaning the outside of the lens netted some pretty good results in my humble opinion. Judge for yourselves...

The top headlight in the above picture is the original uncleaned/un-restored headlight for comparison.

Alternatives

As mentioned above, there are alternatives to using one of these commercial restoration kits.

A quick and dirty alternative is to use a metal polish to clean the headlights. This actually works quite effectively and can achieve very nice results. You can also follow on from the metal polish with some Plexus plastic polish for an even better result. And finally, if you are really keen, you can try using some kind of mechanical buffing/polishing device for even better results.

The key though, I think, is to use some kind of sealer once you've cleaned the headlights so they maintain their new clean look for a much longer time.

Also, if you really really want, you can open up the headlight assembly, like the JZA80 Supra boys do, and polishing the inside of the headlight lens as well. To do this though, you'll need to bake your headlights in an oven at a VERY low heat and then pry them open once the glue/sealant holding them together softens up, I kid you not!

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